Blog Loglaw: New Zealand: Unemployment Part 5: The Mekong

Remote Buddhist temple on the Mekong in Laos.
Religion permeates every nook and cranny on Earth.

In SE Asia, Thailand is perhaps the most well-known travel destination for Westerners - it's kept up good relations with Britain (and thereby all of Europe and America and Australasia) despite colonization, coups, world and civil wars, and the creep of communism at its borders. So Thai islands and partying have been a known entity for decades. Laos, on the other hand, is unknown for several reasons: mountainous landlocked terrain, extreme poverty, relatively small population (~7 million) and rocky communist history (and equally rocky history of relations with USA). Most Westerners 10 to 15 years ago probably would have never considered going there. Now the travel industry in Laos makes up around 15% of its GDP, and is expected to steadily increase for the next decade. It's a pretty incredible transformation, but not wholly unexpected since travel companies like Contiki have started providing safe and convenient travel options.

The main conduit for Lao tourism is the Mekong River, and while it also passes through Myanmar, Cambodia, and Vietnam, the Lao Mekong is the most scenic and least crowded. After crossing the border by bus on a very hot and humid afternoon, our tour group set off on a two day river boat trip. To say this floating excursion through hours and hours of untamed countryside was cruisy is a bit of an understatement. Our longboat puttered at a leisurely pace, weaving around rocks and eddies. The sun would come and go around each bend, as would the water buffalo, bathing native children, and an occasional small dug-out canoe precariously loaded with fishermen. On board the atmosphere adopted the serenity of the passing water, with space to lounge or read or nap and tables to play cards. In the back a family-style lunch of traditional Lao food was served, and a massive cooler was always brimming with the official state alcoholic drink, Beerlao.

Beerlao advertisement - not that a state-owned monopoly needs marketing.

Upon closer inspection, the boat seemed to just be several sticks lashed haphazardly together.

That night we stopped at a halfway point to our destination - Pakbeng. I will always remember it as the most remote location I've ever used an ATM. And as the place that Drew became a millionaire (in Lao currency). Our accommodation for the night, a home-stay, was really just a hotel with small rooms and bathrooms where the toilet and shower head shared the same 6 sqft space.

A sleepy sunset in the middle of nowhere.

Back on the boat early the next morning, the river was covered in a cool brisk fog. It felt a little intrusive to be chugging along so loudly while the shoreline maintained its silent and shrouded vigilance. The morning wore on and the sky cleared. More cards were played, some push-ups were pushed-up, and soon we were stopping at Pak Ou Caves, only a few hours from our final destination. Carved into the cliff side, they are home to hundreds of miniature Buddha statues. And while the climb to the top proved difficult on our bodies now used to exclusively lounging and drinking on a floating vessel, the views were worth it.

I suppose this would be a good photo for a Lao travel brochure.

Our boat cruise came to an end at Luang Prabang. Designated as a World Heritage site, the city has an amazing mix of historical significance, natural beauty (tucked into mountains and situated right on the Mekong), and a backpacker relaxed vibe. For the first time on our group trip, we had two days and nights to explore. Night one was packed with activities: a bike trip visiting ancient temples and a sustainable silk shop, dinner and beach volleyball at a yoga studio and burger serving restaurant owned by a Canadian (eh?), and a night out bowling at one of three bowling alleys in all of Laos (yes you read that correctly).

Low ridin'. Incidentally Michael clumsily knocked over every single bike in domino fashion, and I will never let him forget that.

A relaxed dinner at Utopia. This is moments before I scraped off the top of my right foot on the concrete "beach" volleyball court.

At bowling, it cost roughly 7 USD for a bucket of ice, a bottle of (Lao) vodka, and mixers.
Drew spent the entire night doing trick shots like this, and not a single employee cared.

The next day was equally busy, with a few of us visiting the house and butterfly garden our local tour guide Doua built himself. Oh sweet sweet Doua with his adorable children and hundreds of hand-raised butterflies. The simple beauty of his property almost cured me of my bowling-induced hangover. Later on we ventured up a bumpy and perilous road to Kuang Si waterfalls, about 45 minutes outside of Luang Prabang. The falls and surrounding hills are also home to a bear sanctuary...it's difficult to remember what part I liked more.

Wandering through a mountain village, eating street meat.

The waterfall distracts from the 5 legitimately and uniquely awkward faces in this photo.

That's a little better.

We had a simple evening of strolling through the town's night market, eating more street meat, and buying Lao handicrafts. The next morning, our group partook in a solemn alms giving to the local Buddhist monks (and monks in training). It was surreal. Arriving before sunrise, we set up camp on the sidewalk in our temple wear. Our alms consisted of a wicker basket filled with sticky rice. After a half hour of waiting, monks of all ages poured from the temple in single file, wearing their recognizable (and I would argue very fashionable) bright orange. As each came by our long line, they would open their metal pots to silently accept a small handful of rice. It went by in a flash, and though it felt noteworthy and important, it is also a confusing and humbling ordeal.

Is it a smile or an old-man knees grimace?

Some monks got massive wads of rice, others only a few grains.

Soon we were back on a bus, heading away from the mighty Mekong and through the mountains to Vang Vieng. Much more to say about that, but not until next time.

Cheers!

Bonus: Animals of the Mekong River!